Marcela in Transit

Watched Doraemon in Catalan a little while this morning.

Off to a too early start Sunday since two alarms sounded at 6:40--ouch! Turns out they wanted to get an early start on going to the beach today. So much for day of rest.

Saw Olympic torch several times. First time, came within a block of my house, maybe a dozen or so people on the sidewalks cheering. Mini-parade with Samsung and Coca-Cola floats as well as buses and police cars. Second time went down to Forum and went along a ways up Diagonal, for arch walk. A lot more people out. Barely had enough time to go home, download pictures, eat a little,watch the TV anchor say that torch was arriving to Plaza Espagna and run to Montjuic to see the ceremony there with speeches and the torch extinguished as a portion of it was taken to Rome. Thousands of people, a lot of little 12 yr olds(born in 1992, when Bcn had Olympics), in matching t-shirts in front.

Satuday
T-Shirt of Day--"Men in Plaid"--two grouchy old guys from the Muppets
Went to Ma Christina to check out Corte Ingles and FNAC since they both had a book I wanted for project. FNAC was in ritzy mall, fruit smoothie place just too tempting to pass up. Tried Shanghai King Wrap as well--not bad. Also a really cool contemporary art exhibit. Much more interesting than the Renaissance museum I was thinking of going to. Some pictures available via email for desktop or via SMS for cell phone background which was a really good idea. Walked to UPC where hung out in library--no elevators on weekends and couldn't check out books I wanted because already had 4 out.

After hanging out in comp lab, walked to Les Corts for Chinese movie "To Live". Was about to skip out because knew it would be depressing, but then Soy showed up so I stayed. Glad I did--turned out to be really good. The depressing parts were more to put the historical parts of the Chinese revolution into context. Little boy gets hit by car by visiting magistrate and daughter dies in childbirth after all doctors were put in jail by Mao.

Wednesday class--Kyle and Ali restarting the debate about whether or not Sabir is gay. Ali had said yes because of the flowery shirts and waving hands around. Kyle said something about it being legal for homosexuals to adopt. Ali had changed his mind, saying that S didn't quite fit the type, Kyle still thought he was, saying that not all fit the type. I just couldn't resist turning around and asking Ali what the type was. He said that Sabir was all artsy but wasn't all the way acting like a gay person would. He mentioned that S favored a particular girl in the class, and that if he favored a boy in the class he might think differently. Found it amusing, just had to point out that a lot of straight men favor guys in classroom. Knee jerk reaction to educate--4th Bryan influence.

Evening stayed in computer lab until closing time. Asked a few people where celebrations were as leaving. So rare to actually converse with UPC students. Arrived to empty house, Rosa had left note that she was out until late. Went to call center to call Mom and see if English Speaking Club had event going on (did but it cost 25 E!) and on way, saw huge pile of trash and furniture in middle of street. So after running back for digital camera, came back in time to see beginnings of fire. After started, people clapped, some men danced around with bottles of champagne. Seemed like whole neighborhood was out--many families with multiple generations. Kids with sparklers and small firecrackers. Very noisy. Talked with older woman there with grandkids. As fire got bigger the ambiance got a little sinister as people backed away. Cars and buses had to turn edge--would be worried. Firemen a few blocks away would come by late to put out fire and trash men would clean up in morning, woman explained.

People out at tables chatting, toasting at bar/cafes. Talked with man there with his family who told me how it was Catalunyan--guess I stood out as foreigner. Though struck during night by how many foreigner looking people I saw--Peruvians, Chinese, Pakistanis, and Filipinos, all part of neighbordhood and carrying on local tradition.

Thought that there might be more going on in Montjuic so stopped back home to refuel just as Rosa coming back. Told her that I was going and she said she'd walk with me. So we walked by Miro park, lots of people still there, many kids with their noisy crackers and Rosa jumping and flinching as we passed by. Though Miro Park had always been devoid of people, full tonight with fireworks and metal band and Catalan flags. Walked around Plaza Espana, many people, glowing bracelets, small fireworks but nothing big. Different ambience. So came back, Rosa bought us both ice cream cones, and chatted as we walked home.

Finally got in touch with Usercentric guy but didn't go nearly as well as I had hoped. After first talk, seemed like he was interested in bringing me in, but this time pressed me to get more specific about interests, but when I was too vague, said that there were plenty of people that were willing to hit the ground running. I kept on though, since the whole point of wanting to do this was to get back into the groove of thinking about my career, otherwise I would be still be in limbo come graduation time so talked him into maybe doing an externship, not paid, but helping out with a project and getting to shadow some employees, which is what I had expected for such a short time anyway. Still a little demoralizing though--hard to show confidence when I still feel like I have so much to learn and keep on getting slapped down. "Fake it until you make it"

Talk with Luisa Monday night, late as she was only one left watching TV. Found out she's only 15, left forum because friend left (sounds like a cultural amusement park, complete with lines) and was talking about a guy who left her strange message. She wanted to watch "The Mexican" but got nights confused and watched "The Kid" instead--kind of cheesy.

Talked with guy from XperienceConsulting on Monday--last minute invite for 6:30 but didn't give me metro stop and got Aribau mixed up with Arago so ended up several miles from where I needed to be. Luckily walked several blocks and was able to catch a bus right away--turns out it was in Gracia so definitely not within walking distance. Chatted for a while about usability.

Yesterday went to see movie "Corte de Cabello" at Verdi Park as part of Portuguese Film Festival. Strange. Girl gets her hair cut to see if fiancee loves her for her or for her hair. He hates it but marries her anyway, some friction and then she wakes up to see that he´s cut her hair even more to almost nothing (would think that would wake her up, especially since he would have to move her head to make it as even as it was but never mind). Then went into bridal shop and walked off with wedding gown in ghostly scene, watched by black guy who she is going to run off with until they get beaten by skinheads. So then she goes back to husband in pretty bad shape and everything is hunky-dory. Even considering that I missed first 10 minutes, still bizarre. Only about 8 other people for showing, everyone by themselves. Asked one woman what had happened during first part and she looked at me dumbfounded. I asked her if she spoke Spanish and she said yes and said she wasn't used to being addressed in such a fashion and that it wasn't normal. Said this several times before she finally told me what had happened at beginning of movie. Erin had mentioned something about how Barceloneans didn't smile at each other or talk to strangers and was wondering how people got together.

Erin was in my architecture group again so joined up with him at La Ciutat and ended up walking some 5 miles down Diagonal. Didn't think we were going to make it, especially since neither of us had had dinner, but after 2 hours we were there. Very different, from areas with lots of people, to commercial areas, to areas under construction to the mall and Forum. A lot of people on bikes, people taking a stroll in certain areas, other times, not a soul. Definitely a good project to get us noticing life of city.

Notes--this weekend guy with small dog on Metro (cute but definitely no seeing eye dog--then again haven't seen anything explicitly prohibiting it either), lots of families in general, out for day on beach or around I guess.

Days started to go by amazingly fast. End of third long weekend and only got partially caught up on work. Just came back from open-air gospel choir concert in Plaza Catalunya which was great. "And the walls came tumbling down", "Oh Happy Day", "at the Table", "Hallelulah", and so on in Catalan, Spanish, and English. All in purple robes, only one that might have been African American, everyone grooving, even the sign language interpreter. Didn't get to invite rest of Tech crowd so didn't get to share excitement afterwards, but maybe will try to go to one of their rehearsals.

Tried to do a little sightseeing today, but got incredibly tired. Went back to Hospital Creu and Sant Pau and got a 1 1/2 hr private tour for 3 euros. As it turns out the interiors weren't quite as impressive as the exteriors but it was still interesting to find out the backstory behind all the symbols and architecture. Architecture Montaner used a lot of mosaics, put in initials and crests in a lot of places. Still in use as a public hospital but as UNESCO monument with another hospital being built in back, will soon become a museum.

Afterwards walked to Sagrada Familia,which was just a few blocks down the street. Many restaurants, bakeries, gelaterias still open, so got Chinese food and fresh orange juice(the store kind is so blah). Got student discount so went in for 2nd time and got basically same reaction as first 6 years ago--once got past front facade and went inside, said "That's it??". Went part of way up tower but got dizzy since no side railing and was afraid of falling. Got to see parts of tower up close--able to see details like words "Hosanna" and "Sanctus" on side. CD rom in museum gave more details to aspects such as lighting so was able to appreciate the meager interior more. Sobered by fragments from original structure, much of which destroyed by mob during Civil War. Even the original models and sketches were destroyed, so they had to piece together to keep on going and rebuild. Staircase supposed to look like shell from top, but that's one scene I was happy enough to see in postcard rather than climbing up 200 more stairs. Close up was able to see turtle, new white towers with candy on top, and angel playing the bassoon.

Afterwards took metro to Horta to do one of tours in book, but too tired to go further even after getting more to drink. Saw specials in call center, about 1/4 price to call U.S. than to call cell phone in Spain, but Mom still not home and only know people's cell phone numbers which would cost them a lot for international calls so have to stick to email for now. Cheaper for me too anyway--always have the feeling I've lost track of some money since it's just too easy to give out money when it's in coins.

Last night saw Shakespeare A Capella in Catalan. Was warned that I might not understand much and that was only half singing but got tickets anyway. The singing was good, but guess I don't know as much Shakespeare as I thought because I only recognized 2 of the monologues--the one about seeing something through the window and Juliet being the sun and Marc Anthony's speech from Julius Caesar. It was mixed up with a lot of arguing and random discussions so it wasn't even all Shakespeare. Weirdest moment when one guy stripped down to underwear and put on a black bra and lipstick and at the end of whatever he said they poured a pitcher of water over him. Found out afterwards it was from Macbeth. Long walk back afterwards--should have taken metro.

So last night ended up in computer lab until getting kicked out then walked towards library. Struck up conversation with young couple walking same way with luggage. They had just come back from Madrid but hadn't had a chance to leave their stuff at home since they had to drop something off at uni first. They were both from Mexico, the girl a student from Tec de Monterrey studying her de intercambio and the guy her boyfriend visiting her. She was boggled down with work since she hadn't started to studying for exams yet, but we exchanged email so we could hang out some time.

From there, after brief stop at gelato shop where friendly guy let me have a couple of spoons to compare "before 8" and "after 8" as well as a mini cup of horchata, to La Pedrera for a Mexican folklore concert. Was pretty cool. Got to go through Gaudi museum with structural and funicular models showing how Gaudi determined how to distribute weights. Concert itself on rooftop amongst cool chimneys, some of which inspired masks from Star Wars according to guard. Included was choice of orange juice or champagne.

Chatted with Germans in line, girl was studying Spanish at International House. Afterwards they invited me along with some other people they hooked up with there to bar. Luckily someone suggested Gracia, which I had been wanting to explore afterwards anyway. A lot of noisy plazas with people hanging out, but most bar tables already full. Several banners hanging from houses above "Gracia Vol Descans". Apparently a lot more late night hangouts in the area than most areas of Barcelona so people who lived there had trouble sleeping with all the outdoor noise.

This morning woke up pretty late so didn't seem like option to go to Girona. Tried to go to Hospital de St Pau but they ended tours early that day because of conference. Took bus back so could take scenic route to UPC. Different neighborhood so felt like I was in another city.

So much for all the work I was hoping to get done this afternoon. Actually was able to get some reading done at home. Around 2, Rosa came back, asking about phone messages and then started talking about how she had met her friend who she had hoped to eat lunch with. It started with the friend asking for a place to stay for her son since they were foreigners and some people had problems with that (though as she has reminded me "Yo no tengo nada conta nadie, blanco o negro, nomas que tiene bien corazon"). She went on for about 20 minutes telling about how she had worked as a porter for 30 years and how her husband and her had ended up renting their first apartment out for 3000 pesetas a month and since the same couple lived in it for 30 years, they could not raise the rent because of the way the contract was written. She bought her present apartment right before her husband died and had helped her son buy an apartment a few doors down and housed her daughter and her no-good drunk husband and kids for a while. At times she repeated parts of the story or forgot her train of thought--a common theme was how hard she had worked. So just sat back and listened for a while.

So I finally made it to UPC, finding Ali here yet again doing game reviews or something while Ji was also online from netkiosk. Ran around faxing forms to Tech for reimbursement and had to make another trip back to get the plane itineraries scanned in time for the 5:00 deadline. So doesn't look like I'll have the chance for exploring much this weekend. Though definitely on for several concerts at least.

Last night ended up going to opera completely at the last minute. When I got the box office, there was only 3 minutes before they were going to start and they only had obstructed view seating at 5.75€ so I got it. As it turns out, the view was actually pretty good, just had to lean over a bit, or stand up, which was possible since the row behind was a lot higher. Great view of the orchestra pit and the ceiling. Sat next to Mexican woman who had been in Barcelona for a year and explained the plot to me. "Tosca" about a famous opera singer who is in love with an artist who was condemned to death for hiding a prisoner. She tangles with a police chief who she kills and after being reunited with her artist and singing together for 15 minutes about their love, I knew at least one of them was going to die as well. For once, it was the guy and Tosca walked off, leaving both her career and her love behind. Oh well.

Finally got the course dropped though decided to stick with architecture. Interviewed with UserCentric firm in Oak Brook Terrace but at this point, changing plans would be almost impossible. Still trying to see if there are other firms that I can interview or work with. If I ever catch up with classes that is--aack!

From Wednesday night:

Another stressful few days worrying about whether I'd be allowed to drop classes. Had to email several people and was worried about people not responding but luckily Norberto intervened with study abroad office so I can drop down to 9 hrs. A little reluctant to drop Sabir's class, esp since I could use another good grade(was chatting with Daniel who pointed out that the grade distribution has been overwhelmingly A's with a few B's), but I've just been so tired and am realizing how much of the city I have yet to explore because I've spent so much time in the computer lab, at home and looking for another apartment.

Still really disoriented after the trip so probably won't try another big one until the end. Everyone has gone off to either Rome, Mallorca or Great Britain this long weekend. I still might try to go to Basque country or do a day trip to Sitges or Girona. I haven't even gone to Parc Guell or Sagrada Familia at all so definitely should spend more time wandering Barcelona. I walked around the neighborhood a little this morning and evening, checking out the local supermarkets--4 within a 2 block radius in addition to several fruit shops--as well as a couple of call center/internet places, one of which will set me up with my laptop (yay!) and an internet cybercafe that has specials combining 1/2 hr internet access with coffee, smoothies, or pastries.

Interviewed with design firm I found on web last semester which happens to be right around corner. My language skills were what seemed to impress them the most--they work with French people so I need to be able to understand specs. I'd be working for free of course but it seems like it would be a good experience. Hope it works out.

Third homestay seems to be the charm thus far. Was worried originally about mom/daughter but daughter turns out to be really cool and chatted with her a while today. She went with friends to Sitges, to hang out on the beach. Watched Japanese-dubbed-into-Catalan manga cartoon with her followed by "Third Rock from Sun" also dubbed into Catalan. Rosa, the lady who owns the apt is kind of funny, talkative and much more laidback than Carmen so it looks like things will work out. Gave her the month's rent today since am finally convinced that classes are going to work out. Still getting used to house--had trouble unlocking door from inside and couldn't figure out how the oven worked. Meeting a lot of the neighbors on the elevator and in the lobby today.

Note from the other day--When talking to Carmen, people yelling across and she asked why people yelled and if they did that where I was. Guess the issue is that apartment buildings are so close together here that noise travels across floors and courtyards more than it would in States where there's a little bit more space usually. I was wandering on terrace today to see if I could get a wireless signal (detected 3 but all protected) and got views of backsides of at least 10 or 20 buildings back sides, windows and laundry. Driers don't seem to exist here and laundry is ridiculously expensive--9 euros a load.

A little overwhelmed and am still thinking about trying to change tickets to go back home though at this point would be hard to find anything else to do for summer. Looked like tomorrow was the only available day to go back because of filled flights and I cancelled the reservation but after seeing all the work that I need to catch up on and the lack of response from my campus advisors, wondering if that was wise.

So my inhibitions about the lady I was staying with turned out correct and she asked me to move out. I got really nervous after she followed me around, critiquing everything, and after we were unsure whether to sign the contract or give it a trial period, I could then do no right. Was insane--calling people up again not even 2 days after moving my stuff in. Got in yesterday from airport since I had left my stuff packed and she started moving it out even though I was exhausted and it was late Sunday evening (had told the other woman that I would sign contract on Monday). Before leaving, she said she was going to charge me 2 days but then changed her mind and was saying she was going to charge me 4 at 18 euros a night which is what she said the agency woman told her to charge. She started going off about all the stuff she had done for me, washing my sheets, how she was losing a month´s rent (conveniently forgetting her role in this of course), how I had taken showers (1!) and talking about how noone else would have done what she did for me. I agreed with that part since I was stunned by her cruelty. She wouldn't even let me use her phone to call somewhere to find a place to stay. At the end she stood there with her cheek to me, for me to kiss her (though she didn´t kiss me). I almost wish I had spit in her face instead. It was really upsetting.

So luckily the other woman on Valencia let me move in on short notice and after I expressed my reluctance to go back to the agency (though didn´t tell her about the other lady) and pay the 2 months deposit, she said I could stay paying 1 month deposit or else pay her per day should I decide to go home this week. Had gone to visit her the other night before leaving and got to meet other people she was staying with. The daughter is high school age and was really friendly and the mother was a little aloof, looking at me kind of suspiciously but seemed ok. The daughter stayed up later than anyone, watching TV as she worked on her homework. Turns out she´s from Ecuador and has only been in Barcelona for 2 yrs.

Wandered by a few other apartments, 2 co-ed with heavy smokers which didn´t appeal, one which seemed a bit pricy for a small room, and one with a photographer who seemed really cool and showed me her work, but whose apt was on the 5th floor with no elevator.

Tuesday also looked through telescopes at Venus transit--didn´t realize until afterwards that it was such a rare event. Seemed pretty lame compared to solar eclipse--just a small mole on the Sun. Got filter glasses from friendly woman who turned out to be American, studying her astronomy PhD at UPC since she married some Catalan guy.

Wednesday was hoping to go to class but but caught up in packing and storing my stuff. Arrived in Vienna and got into town after some confusion about transportation (no tourism info!) so took tram around to see some of sites. Started raining pretty heavily. Across from cathedral found several people in full Aztec regalia with signs, drums, and Mexican flags. They were from different parts of Mexico and were taking a break from dancing because of rain but after a while started dancing in a circle again. Was tempted to join in, vaguely remembering the classes I took at Old Town.

So finally made it to train station, only to find that the line was not moving at all. Apparently each transaction took 5-10 minutes because the guy was answering tons of questions and then writing out the tickets by hand. Girl I was standing next to explained my situation to people at front of line who let me up since my train was about to leave but as it turns out it had left anyway at 20:01 instead of 20:22 since I had misread the schedule so I would have missed it anyway. So took off to find a hostel room, joining up with three Asian girls in backpacks who turned out to be from Korea. One girl was studying abroad in Brighton and the other two were just travelling.They were looking for Wombats, one of the hostels I had looked for, and we bumped into several people that were walking from there who pointed us in the right direction.

As it turns out, they decided not to stay there since there wasn´t space for the number of nights they wanted to stay. I had already paid for the night and was going to follow them but they left and I found them at the other hostel they said they were looking for since they had given me their guidebook.

Morning I set out at 6:22, first train of morning for Budapest to be on time for conference. Sat in compartment with Austrian woman who was going to Hungary to see the dentist. Apparently it´s a lot cheaper there despite the 2 hr train ride and there is a lot of dental tourism with busloads of Swiss coming over to get their teeth worked on.

On arrival to train station found tourism place which referred me to hostel which had been booked when I emailed them. Supposed discount turned out not to be discount since euro had gone down and prices were in forint and rooms were 12 compartments of 2 sets of bunk beds separated by curtains--made me feel a tad claustrophobic but surprisingly had no problem sleeping since lights out early. Shared section with one girl who had been studying abroad in Spain and another guy who said it was one of nicer hostels he had been to. Both extolling their brand of walking shoes (Charos?)

So got to conference a little late, but was at least settled into hostel, which might not have worked out had I gotten there late the night before. A little intimidating at first since I didn´t know anyone but there were plenty of coffee breaks and lunch to meet people. Hooked up with several other grad students for dinner. One Asian looking woman with a thick European accent turned out to be Norwegian, a Korean adoptee with 2 kids. Two women from Singapore, one of whom was studying for her PhD in Denmark and was joined by her Polish boyfriend. Found internet place for 170 forints an hour which was run by an Persian guy who was studying dentistry and insisted on showing me his pictures of Iran.

Friday more conference. Was a little bored walking around by myself afterwards so went back and found out I could go to speaker´s dinner after all. Sat with Hungarian girl who was translating since she was fluent in English and Norwegian as well as Hungarian. She had grown up in Norway but returned after fall of Communism. She was quite passionate in describing the history behind the regime, about how Hungary had been hurt during World War 2 and in the aftermath with the control by the Soviet Union. She pointed out some bleak looking block flats which had been built for people imported to the city from the country. She also pointed out some Roman ruins and talked proudly about how a few of the Roman emperors had been Hungarian or something. Got pretty good dinner after initial confusion as to what different options were. Got to talk to Rich Ling and James Katz, both of whom were really nice. Katz was showing off his program from the opera from the night before and introduced me to several other attendees.

Saturday off to slow start since speaker´s presentation was blah, something about industrial society and capitalism causing harm to environment but then the conference organizer got really excited during q & a and announced that the guy was not only 100% wrong but 180 degrees wrong, his logic was wrong and so on. Woke me up a little but still decided to wander over to parliament to get tour (very beautiful with gold, granite columns, cigar slots-- "worth a Cuban" if it burned out during long speech, tour with other American, 2 Spaniards and 2 Italians who had their own guide) and the ethnography museum (really cool with typical costumes and descriptions of life stages of Hungarians 200 yrs ago from birth to death). Came back for Katz´s talk on mobiles in educational settings, which made me a little skeptical since laptops and IMing is even more of a factor but that´s treated as a different research area.

Afterwards walked down, Opera House cancelled tours and no more performances for day. Further down found another place which looked a little like a nightclub with guards at front but turned out to be the House of Terror which was the headquarters for both the Nazis and the Communists(KGB equivalent) who brought people in there for interrogation and torture. Now it´s a museum--very moody with background music from Schindler´s List and other suspenseful/tragic/tense music throughout. Entry had Soviet tank and wall of pictures of people who died there and first room had black car with Soviet flag inside. A lot of history displayed review of what had learned night before from Hungarian girl but displays brought it to life with videos of shouting soldiers, a labrynth of plastic bricks and recreations of cells. The audio guide had ridiculously long descriptions which changed once you went into another room but luckily the scripts (usually 2-3 pages) were also available if you wanted to move on). Particularly effective was the elevator from the 3rd floor to the basement in a slow moving elevator during which you listened to a documentary of a former official describing the tortures to get you into the somber mood to look at the cells. Pictures of the victimizers showed that a lot of the people that worked here were still alive.

A little strange after that to go back into broad daylight but kept on walking until Hero´s Square. Art museum didn´t have exhibit going on so just looked at postcards which were from other museums. Got onto metro but was confused as to what ticket to get for transfer and was paranoid after reading and hearing stories about people getting nabbed with the wrong ticket and paying extra fines. Bumped into Katz´s companion from night before who tried to help but was finally able to buy from counter person who returned. Made it to Castle Hill in Buda but church had just closed and museums were closing. Still very nice views and a relaxing walk, down by funicular. Walked back to hostel to pick up stuff, guy talking about ballet at opera house and museum in Hero´s Square. Just enough time and money to check email and get dinner at BK before trekking back to train station. Email turned out to be wise since I nabbed last room at Wombat´s--glad that housing worked out since saw several people that weren´t so lucky.

Morning up early to go to airport. Flight ended up being delayed by more than 5 hrs but didn´t know in time to make it worth going out to city again to see more of Vienna. Worried, called Estrella to contact lady I was staying with since I was sure she was going to be mad. Was tired, at least got free meal and was able to window shop. Fun t-shirts that said "There are no kangaroos in Austria!" Bumped into Rich Ling who was late for his plane connection. Talked to ship engineer who was bound for Barcelona. Another half hr delay on landing since there were no stairs to get us off plane. Pouring down rain. Then the nightmare of having to find another place last minute. Oh well. Feel like I´m 2 steps away from having it together and succeeding but could just as easily trip and fall the way I´ve been doing since I´ve gotten here. Think it would be harder to get back into Ga Tech if I leave this summer though.

Other random notes
Clothes store on Virrarel with 2 for 6 euros sale had only 4 dressing rooms, none of which had mirrors except for one on outside and there were many women there waiting. Was trying something on and looking when an older woman pushed her way in saying there were supposed to be 2 to a dressing room and took off her shirt to try on her outfit. Thought this was odd and employee came by saying that there was only 1 to a dressing room allowed to my relief.

Where to start when so much has been happening? So now I’m in a new place, in a room with a view, plenty of sunlight and unexpectedly, wireless access. The only thing is the landlady is a complete neatnik, following me around telling me I was washing dishes wrong, using the wrong dish towel, needed to wash down shower, etc. so I’m a little worried it’s going to be an even more stressful experience than with Edu and Flor. But oh well. It’s a really great location and the other two girl rooming there are really nice (Sophie a French Swiss and Ilaria, an Italian), so hopefully it will be ok.

I basically spent the whole break worrying about the apartment thing. Monday everything was closed because of the holiday so Tuesday just stopped by the agency and had to go back Wednesday to see if I could make appointments at the places I was interested in. I got two appointments. One was on Virraruel, same road I live on only several blocks south of Gran Via. Owner was really nice, had a summer house in Sitges so I’d basically have the place to myself. This was tempting, though I was worried I might get lonely. The room also seemed small with no desk and not so much light or storage space though the living room was bigger with paintings. The second place was on Valencia, the other cross road with the place where E & F live, but on the other side of Passeig de Gracia so a little further out. Room was bigger with light, bookshelves, several closets, a big desk, and a balcony with a beautiful view. Building across street with stained glass windows and another that looked like a castle.

Was still a little hesitant since I liked both and was also worried about the extra fees and deposit required, so I kept on calling people from notices and listings I found at the housing place and bulletin boards. I went to see one place in Sants, around the train station which was a room with two girls around my age. One was talking on the phone when I came in so the other one showed me around. Bad sign when at one point, both were smoking. The phone girl also had the expectation that I would be there to help her practice English every evening. The room itself was small and depressing so it wasn’t a tough choice to say no, though I wouldn’t mind hanging out with them again.

Thursday morning I went to see another apartment from agency listings, with older woman who lived on west Valencia, near Tarragona. She was a lot older and seemed slightly off. She was also housing a woman and her 16 yr old daughter who had been left on the street with nothing when the husband left them for another woman. The room and living space were really nice and I’d have my own bathroom, but I was not sure I’d hit it off as well with this woman as with the other two I had met and of course I didn’t get to meet the other apartment mates.

So back to the locutorio where I called a lot of places, a lot of which had already been rented or would not be available until July. I got an email from another student agency which made me an offer, saying there was an apartment available for 300 euros but I couldn’t visit it or meet the people I’d be living with because it’d be too inconvenient for them! Of course they’d keep the 90 euro deposit if I ended up not signing the contract. Stopped by one place that sounded good because it would be rented by the week but it turns out it was all guys and basically rented out already. Also stopped by place near Sants that was pretty cheap (200) and sharing with 3 other grad students but it also seemed small and not well lighted.

For a break, I took advantage of free museum day at MNAC--National Museum of Catalunia Art. Pretty boring--not into Romanesque/Gothic sacred art, some of which was falling apart since it had been rescued from decaying churches. Tried to go by modern art museum which was also supposed to be free that day, but it had been closed since the collection was being moved to MNAC.

In the evening, I visited one older woman who lived several blocks from my metro stop, Hospital Clinic. It was a smallish apartment--the room was pretty tiny, with a pull out desk and not a lot of storage space because she had so many books (1500+ by her count). She told me a lot about her life--her main visitor was her 20ish year old nephew who came over frequently to make phone calls because his mother had gotten fed up with his high phone bills. He often called her asking her to recharge his cell phone or would just sit on the couch for hours talking. She told me that she was Spanish first but also Catalunyan, pointing out the little flag she had. Showed off all her books and explained several expressions like tomando el pelo. Several friends had suggested that she make cost-saving limitations like the rentee could only take 3 showers a week!

Afterwards went to another office of couple that’s run more like a residencia with 6 or so students sharing a bathroom and kitchen and a few of the rooms with their own TV and mini-fridge.Was going on about how many of the students signed on because they had been looking for days and it was the first place they’d seen with sunlight. Wasn’t too impressed though--really shoddy shape, 3rd world?, obviously old building painted brown so made it look even older with bad light and strict rules like there was only day on which you could do laundry. Afterwards went to chorus, but found out only one rehearsal remaining so director said it wasn’t worth my time. Stayed anyway, fun to hear direction in Catalan and the acoustics made the sacred music sound absolutely spine-tingling. Wish I could sing more.

So after all these phone calls to places which sounded even worse, I had basically made up my mind to go with the room with a view in spite of the 2 month deposit required. It was Friday afternoon and Carmen had gone out so now was faced with possibility that I wouldn’t be able to sign contract on time. Panicked, made more phone calls and emails but finally found out that they would let me go, paying Carmen the rent and could move in over weekend and sign contract on Sunday. Relieved and starving, splurged on a set menu--spaghetti with pesto, lumin which was some kind of fish which turned out to be really good, wine, and dessert for 7.50. The servings turned out really small so was still hungry, though there was still plenty of wine left over.

When I made it to Carmen’s, it turns out all my worries were for naught since Carmen said the deposit wasn’t necessary, that we would just say I had paid it (I had just given her 300) and pay the other month’s in front of them. She talked for a while--she’s had a lot of students over the years and talked about some of her favorites, especially this Japanese girl who she had several pictures of, including one of her in a flamenco dress.

So Friday night to Plaza Catalunya, where after a Care Bear Happy Meal discovered there was a festival going on, de Just Comerç, apparently to alert people to not exploiting the Third World. Cuban/island music with some good dancing. Talked with mom using phone card, who was relieved I found a new place since she had been worried that I was unhappy. She left for Poland Sunday so is having adventures of her own.

Saturday packing and took several suitcases over, but found that my papers had accumulated to the point which I had to make another trip. Medieval market in front of new place which apparently is an annual 2 day events. Guys playing bagpipes, hamburger and wine for 2 euros, a lot of tea and food and trinket booths and people dressed up in vaguely medievel outfits, though not as nearly all-out as I’ve seen at Renaissance festivals.

Passed by protest walking down street preceded by police car. Wasn’t really sure what it was. Also saw people dancing Sardana in front of cathedral. Ended up going to History of Ciutat museum which I ended up recognizing from my last trip to Barcelona. I was as unimpressed this time as last time--it was basically a bunch of rocks, what was left of the Roman city. At least I didn’t have to pay for the disappointment. On exiting, succumbed to temptation of milk and banana/chocolate cake. Passed by cathedral to find protesters were now chanting and holding their signs outside. This time I found that they were immigrants wanting their papers fixed. Two girls standing in front had a sign that said “Europe Sigue Masacrando” (Europe keeps on massacuring) and their faces and arms were painted red.

More interesting sights in Ramblas area, with thousands of people out for the afternoon. Black puppets, one playing trumpet while 4 glued together to form a gospel choir sang “Let my people go”. Tap dancer down Plaza d Angel, violin students in Barri Gothi, little African girl laughing at the “dancing” Bart and Homer with the floppy legs bouncing to music.

Stopped by the festival again, for an African jazz fusion sort of group. Reminded me of Summerdance/Hothouse concerts and it struck me that I could be doing the same thing in Chicago. It started late so ended up leaving early so I could stop by new place to pick up suitcase to go back to E & F’s. Florencia was a lot friendlier and more talkative than usual, I guess wanting to make sure there were no hard feelings.

Sunday finished packing. Stopped by international church which was only a few blocks away but got a strange vibe since program talked about Arab missions and verse to be lectured on (with fill in the blanks provided so people would pay attention) was “Flee from sexual immorality”. It was clear that the service was going to go on a while so I fled.

Plenty of free museums for first Sunday but museums were only open until 2 or so so I had to choose. Decided on history of Catalunya which sounded cool based on the guidebooks. Ended up pretty interesting, a little more interactive and with more interesting displays than the city one. Afterwards walked along the pier, scoped out the IMAX place, the aquarium, the movie theatre with student discounts where Harry Potter is going to premiere next week and the mall with a lot of cool restaurants. Was very tempted with all the crepes and smoothie places so know where to go for breakfast the next weekend that I’m around.

Front page news---protesters had ended up taking over the cathedral and spending the night there to try to have their demands heard.

Back to house, caught glance of First Wive’s Club and gymnastics on TV. Rushed off to performance which ended up being music of Carmina Burana combined with flamenco music/dancing and including dancing horses and midgets in robes. Sure I didn’t get all the imagery in there but it was truly a work of art.

Other random notes--Mercadona supermarket dog tied up while owner went shopping.

Bargained at Hong Kong bazaar--half backpack and Pucca mini-backpack for 14 which was cheaper than I was going to suggest. Really cool neighborhood store.

Phone booth near his place had been completely shattered with thousands of tiny shards of glass all around the booth. Asked a passing woman what had happened and she said urban vandalism.