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Monday, June 07, 2004

Where to start when so much has been happening? So now I’m in a new place, in a room with a view, plenty of sunlight and unexpectedly, wireless access. The only thing is the landlady is a complete neatnik, following me around telling me I was washing dishes wrong, using the wrong dish towel, needed to wash down shower, etc. so I’m a little worried it’s going to be an even more stressful experience than with Edu and Flor. But oh well. It’s a really great location and the other two girl rooming there are really nice (Sophie a French Swiss and Ilaria, an Italian), so hopefully it will be ok.

I basically spent the whole break worrying about the apartment thing. Monday everything was closed because of the holiday so Tuesday just stopped by the agency and had to go back Wednesday to see if I could make appointments at the places I was interested in. I got two appointments. One was on Virraruel, same road I live on only several blocks south of Gran Via. Owner was really nice, had a summer house in Sitges so I’d basically have the place to myself. This was tempting, though I was worried I might get lonely. The room also seemed small with no desk and not so much light or storage space though the living room was bigger with paintings. The second place was on Valencia, the other cross road with the place where E & F live, but on the other side of Passeig de Gracia so a little further out. Room was bigger with light, bookshelves, several closets, a big desk, and a balcony with a beautiful view. Building across street with stained glass windows and another that looked like a castle.

Was still a little hesitant since I liked both and was also worried about the extra fees and deposit required, so I kept on calling people from notices and listings I found at the housing place and bulletin boards. I went to see one place in Sants, around the train station which was a room with two girls around my age. One was talking on the phone when I came in so the other one showed me around. Bad sign when at one point, both were smoking. The phone girl also had the expectation that I would be there to help her practice English every evening. The room itself was small and depressing so it wasn’t a tough choice to say no, though I wouldn’t mind hanging out with them again.

Thursday morning I went to see another apartment from agency listings, with older woman who lived on west Valencia, near Tarragona. She was a lot older and seemed slightly off. She was also housing a woman and her 16 yr old daughter who had been left on the street with nothing when the husband left them for another woman. The room and living space were really nice and I’d have my own bathroom, but I was not sure I’d hit it off as well with this woman as with the other two I had met and of course I didn’t get to meet the other apartment mates.

So back to the locutorio where I called a lot of places, a lot of which had already been rented or would not be available until July. I got an email from another student agency which made me an offer, saying there was an apartment available for 300 euros but I couldn’t visit it or meet the people I’d be living with because it’d be too inconvenient for them! Of course they’d keep the 90 euro deposit if I ended up not signing the contract. Stopped by one place that sounded good because it would be rented by the week but it turns out it was all guys and basically rented out already. Also stopped by place near Sants that was pretty cheap (200) and sharing with 3 other grad students but it also seemed small and not well lighted.

For a break, I took advantage of free museum day at MNAC--National Museum of Catalunia Art. Pretty boring--not into Romanesque/Gothic sacred art, some of which was falling apart since it had been rescued from decaying churches. Tried to go by modern art museum which was also supposed to be free that day, but it had been closed since the collection was being moved to MNAC.

In the evening, I visited one older woman who lived several blocks from my metro stop, Hospital Clinic. It was a smallish apartment--the room was pretty tiny, with a pull out desk and not a lot of storage space because she had so many books (1500+ by her count). She told me a lot about her life--her main visitor was her 20ish year old nephew who came over frequently to make phone calls because his mother had gotten fed up with his high phone bills. He often called her asking her to recharge his cell phone or would just sit on the couch for hours talking. She told me that she was Spanish first but also Catalunyan, pointing out the little flag she had. Showed off all her books and explained several expressions like tomando el pelo. Several friends had suggested that she make cost-saving limitations like the rentee could only take 3 showers a week!

Afterwards went to another office of couple that’s run more like a residencia with 6 or so students sharing a bathroom and kitchen and a few of the rooms with their own TV and mini-fridge.Was going on about how many of the students signed on because they had been looking for days and it was the first place they’d seen with sunlight. Wasn’t too impressed though--really shoddy shape, 3rd world?, obviously old building painted brown so made it look even older with bad light and strict rules like there was only day on which you could do laundry. Afterwards went to chorus, but found out only one rehearsal remaining so director said it wasn’t worth my time. Stayed anyway, fun to hear direction in Catalan and the acoustics made the sacred music sound absolutely spine-tingling. Wish I could sing more.

So after all these phone calls to places which sounded even worse, I had basically made up my mind to go with the room with a view in spite of the 2 month deposit required. It was Friday afternoon and Carmen had gone out so now was faced with possibility that I wouldn’t be able to sign contract on time. Panicked, made more phone calls and emails but finally found out that they would let me go, paying Carmen the rent and could move in over weekend and sign contract on Sunday. Relieved and starving, splurged on a set menu--spaghetti with pesto, lumin which was some kind of fish which turned out to be really good, wine, and dessert for 7.50. The servings turned out really small so was still hungry, though there was still plenty of wine left over.

When I made it to Carmen’s, it turns out all my worries were for naught since Carmen said the deposit wasn’t necessary, that we would just say I had paid it (I had just given her 300) and pay the other month’s in front of them. She talked for a while--she’s had a lot of students over the years and talked about some of her favorites, especially this Japanese girl who she had several pictures of, including one of her in a flamenco dress.

So Friday night to Plaza Catalunya, where after a Care Bear Happy Meal discovered there was a festival going on, de Just Comerç, apparently to alert people to not exploiting the Third World. Cuban/island music with some good dancing. Talked with mom using phone card, who was relieved I found a new place since she had been worried that I was unhappy. She left for Poland Sunday so is having adventures of her own.

Saturday packing and took several suitcases over, but found that my papers had accumulated to the point which I had to make another trip. Medieval market in front of new place which apparently is an annual 2 day events. Guys playing bagpipes, hamburger and wine for 2 euros, a lot of tea and food and trinket booths and people dressed up in vaguely medievel outfits, though not as nearly all-out as I’ve seen at Renaissance festivals.

Passed by protest walking down street preceded by police car. Wasn’t really sure what it was. Also saw people dancing Sardana in front of cathedral. Ended up going to History of Ciutat museum which I ended up recognizing from my last trip to Barcelona. I was as unimpressed this time as last time--it was basically a bunch of rocks, what was left of the Roman city. At least I didn’t have to pay for the disappointment. On exiting, succumbed to temptation of milk and banana/chocolate cake. Passed by cathedral to find protesters were now chanting and holding their signs outside. This time I found that they were immigrants wanting their papers fixed. Two girls standing in front had a sign that said “Europe Sigue Masacrando” (Europe keeps on massacuring) and their faces and arms were painted red.

More interesting sights in Ramblas area, with thousands of people out for the afternoon. Black puppets, one playing trumpet while 4 glued together to form a gospel choir sang “Let my people go”. Tap dancer down Plaza d Angel, violin students in Barri Gothi, little African girl laughing at the “dancing” Bart and Homer with the floppy legs bouncing to music.

Stopped by the festival again, for an African jazz fusion sort of group. Reminded me of Summerdance/Hothouse concerts and it struck me that I could be doing the same thing in Chicago. It started late so ended up leaving early so I could stop by new place to pick up suitcase to go back to E & F’s. Florencia was a lot friendlier and more talkative than usual, I guess wanting to make sure there were no hard feelings.

Sunday finished packing. Stopped by international church which was only a few blocks away but got a strange vibe since program talked about Arab missions and verse to be lectured on (with fill in the blanks provided so people would pay attention) was “Flee from sexual immorality”. It was clear that the service was going to go on a while so I fled.

Plenty of free museums for first Sunday but museums were only open until 2 or so so I had to choose. Decided on history of Catalunya which sounded cool based on the guidebooks. Ended up pretty interesting, a little more interactive and with more interesting displays than the city one. Afterwards walked along the pier, scoped out the IMAX place, the aquarium, the movie theatre with student discounts where Harry Potter is going to premiere next week and the mall with a lot of cool restaurants. Was very tempted with all the crepes and smoothie places so know where to go for breakfast the next weekend that I’m around.

Front page news---protesters had ended up taking over the cathedral and spending the night there to try to have their demands heard.

Back to house, caught glance of First Wive’s Club and gymnastics on TV. Rushed off to performance which ended up being music of Carmina Burana combined with flamenco music/dancing and including dancing horses and midgets in robes. Sure I didn’t get all the imagery in there but it was truly a work of art.

Other random notes--Mercadona supermarket dog tied up while owner went shopping.

Bargained at Hong Kong bazaar--half backpack and Pucca mini-backpack for 14 which was cheaper than I was going to suggest. Really cool neighborhood store.

Phone booth near his place had been completely shattered with thousands of tiny shards of glass all around the booth. Asked a passing woman what had happened and she said urban vandalism.

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